Long hours, high pressure and facing the heat from a hot stove are common in the F&B industry, but these women show they have what it takes to power through and get to the top.
In
1933, Eugenie Brazier became the first female chef to helm two restaurants - La
Mère Brazier in Lyon and an eatery in Col de la Luère – that each earned three
Michelin stars. But fast forward to today, and most will be more familiar with
the name of her then-commis chef – Frenchman Paul Bocuse - instead.
To
be sure, being a woman in an industry that is largely male-dominated is no easy
feat. Here, we pay tribute to 9 female chefs who have overcome obstacles and
led their restaurants to three Michelin-star status.
1. Anne-Sophie Pic
Maison Pic, 285 av.
Victor-Hugo, 26000 Valence, France
Anne-Sophie
Pic is third-generation chef owner of her eponymous restaurant in boutique
hotel Maison Pic, in Valence, south-east France. The heritage-steeped
restaurant first earned three Michelin stars back in 1934, and continues to be
an exemplary fine-dining establishment since Anne-Sophie took over.
Though
she continues the attention to detail and quest for perfection practised by her
father and grandfather, her stints in America and Japan have given her approach
to food a more delicate and feminine touch.
Take
a dish of la carotte et la fleur d'orange. Under Pic’s deft hands, the humble
root vegetable is turned into a textural dish of carrot ribbons and jelly,
topped with a fragrant orange blossom yogurt.
2. Elena Arzak
Arzak, Av Alcalde Elósegui,
273, 20015 San Sebastián-Donostia, Guipúzcoa, Spain
As
the fourth-generation successor of over three Michelin-starred restaurant
Arzak, Elena Arzak runs a tight ship together with her 74-year-old father Juan
Mari. Having trained at top restaurants such as at La Maison Troisgros, Le
Louis XV under Alain Ducasse, Restaurant Pierre Gagnaire and elBulli, Elena now
continues her father’s style of modern Basque cuisine (a refined take on
traditional Northen Spanish fare such as meats and fish grilled over coals and
hearty lamb stews) over at Arzak.
Elena Arzak - Photo Credit: Coconut
Her
playroom is a laboratory above the restaurant, where she and the kitchen team
works on innovative ideas to intensify the flavours in a dish. Imagine, for
instance, freeze-drying mussels and creating a powder for a deep umami hit.
Under her leadership, nearly three-quarters of the chefs in the San Sebastián
restaurant are also female.
3. Carme Ruscalleda
Sant Pau, Carrer Nou,
10, 08395 Sant Pol de Mar, Barcelona, Spain
Located
in Catalonia, a town between Barcelona and Girona, Sant Pau restaurant has held
on to its three Michelin-starred status since 2006. And it’s largely thanks to
Carme Ruscalleda, the short-haired feisty Spanish-Catalan chef who founded the
restaurant together with her husband in 1988.
Having
grown up on a farm, Ruscalleda brings out the best of traditional Catalonian
flavours using fresh seafood and vegetables such as sweet red piquillo peppers.
In 2004, Ruscalleda opened Restaurant Sant Pau in Tokyo, followed by Moments
restaurant in Barcelona in 2010. Both restaurants hold two Michelin stars
today.
4. Annie Féolde
Enoteca Pinchiorri,
Via Ghibellina 87, 50122 Firenze, Italy
She
might have been born in France, but Annie Féolde is the owner of three
Michelin-starred Enoteca Pinchiorri, a restaurant recognised as being the
standard for Italian fine dining in Florence.
While
her husband looks after the well-stocked wine cellar – the restaurant currently
has over 70,000 bottles – Feolde holds court in the kitchen, serving Tuscan
cuisine with a modern twist – spelt soup, for instance, is served with skewered
red prawn wrapped in Parma ham and a bay leaf. Feolde is also the first Italian
woman to have led her restaurant to achieve three Michelin stars.
5. Nadia Santini
Dal Pescatore,
Canneto sull'Oglio, 46013 Runate, Italy
Dal
Pescatore is a traditional Italian bistro that has held three Michelin stars
since 1996, yet few would believe head chef Nadia Santini never went through
formal culinary training. Instead, her recipes and cooking techniques were
taught by her husband’s mother and grandmother, though Santini has since
refined the “mama’s cooking” style. She is said to have inspired younger chefs
such as Clare Smyth and Anne-Sophie Pic.
SEE
ALSO: How to make perfect pasta
6. Luisa Marelli
Valazza
Al Sorriso, Via Roma
18, 28010 Soriso Italy
Luisa Marelli Valazza turns out traditional Italian food.
When
Luisa Marelli Valazza and her husband bought the restaurant in 1981, they
didn’t count on the former head chef to throw in his apron and walk out on
them. But the pair rallied quickly, and worked together to achieve a Michelin
star within their first year of taking over.
7. Clare Smyth
Not
many chefs can hold their own against infamous hothead Gordan Ramsay, much less
earn a sincere compliment from the man himself. UK chef Clare Smyth checks both
boxes, with Ramsay calling her “the most prominent female chef of our
generation” in an interview with Evening Standard last year.
Today,
Valazza’s husband is in charge of sourcing for interesting new ingredients to
work with, while Valazza heads the kitchen and turns out traditional Italian
cuisine and a variety of delicious cheeses.
Smyth
took over Ramsay’s eponymous restaurant along Chelsea’s Royal Hospital Road in
2007, and maintained its three Michelin star status up until she left in 2015.
Smyth will be opening her own 60-seater restaurant in Notting Hill, London,
later this year.
8. Hélène Darroze
Hélène Darroze at The
Connaught, Carlos Pl., Mayfair W1K 2AL, London
Hélène
Darroze is a chef who plays by the rules – of the seasons, that is. Growing up
with parents who ran a one Michelin-starred restaurant in the small town of
Villeneuve-de-Marsan in France sparked her commitment to using only the best
produce, such as local white bamboo shoots and foie gras.
Darroze
first stint a restaurant was under acclaimed chef Alain Ducasse, who spotted
her talent and encouraged her to work in the kitchen. Today, Darroze owns three
restaurants, including two Michelin-starred Hélène Darroze at The Connaught,
London, and one-starred Parisian restaurant, Hélène Darroze.
9. Dominique Crenn
Atelier Crenn, 3127
Fillmore St, San Francisco, CA 94123, USA
Dominique
Crenn is the first female chef from North America to lead her restaurant -
Atelier Crenn in San Francisco – to two Michelin stars.
She
grew up in Versailles, France, and is known for her bold and creative culinary
techniques, best applied to seafood. Lobster, for instance, is served in a
tangy fermented shiso broth, while the freshness of raw scallops is accented
with pineapple water, finger lime, and fruity olive oil.
By Michelin Guide
Singapore