A most creative trio

Photos: Trio of chefs: Mr Hoàng – Mr Nam – Mr Duy

Mr. Hoang introduces each of his team: Mr. Huynh Thanh Hoang, Mr.Nam Hoang Nguyen, Mr. Duy Quang Dinh (Minh Long I Co.Ltd). They are food stylists at the Golden Spoon contest.

Each person has his own personality, but they understand each other very well so that they not only create guidelines for the display, but also impart their wisdom. They put the power of creativity within the hands of people who understand the need for such within cuisine. They work so well with one another that the pictures created by the contest’s dishes coordinated so well that they looked like a painting.

Chef Hoang Thanh Huynh shared that many people think a profession as a Food Stylist as crazy, because we eat only for sustenance. His story about his job awoke in his listeners a feeling of leaving behind the old fashioned that only our stomach cares about food.

Normally Food Stylists must wait for an empty restaurant to play with ingredients, take note the recipes and think of materials, light, shapes, etc. All of these will be done by themselves to create their own features. Silently experimenting, reading and discussing or exchanging with other colleagues, Chef Hoang, Nam and Duy felt that they have met with the trend in modern cuisine, although the concept of “eat to be full” is difficult to evolve into the concept of “eat for its taste”.

They try to get out of the influence of presenting more than the necessary food, but instead presenting a reasonable amount in an elegant, luxurious style. Of more import is the use of edible garnish. The thought of integrating European cuisine style into Vietnamese cuisine is a style locally referred to as, “between us and the world”. The trio's argument is, “if we want Vietnamese food to attract the attention of the world, we have to understand their mind-set, understand what they want before, during and after eating.

To the trio of Hoang Nam and Duy their creativity has a very simple objective, which is to make professional chefs ask themselves, “how do I make this delicious?”

The Golden Spoon contest had new decoration style since the last season and the leading creative team was from An Hoa restaurant, Ben Tre. Although they won the first prize in the preliminary round in Can Tho, locals commented that it is unacceptable when Vietnamese food is presented in Western style. This year many restaurants attended the contest in Can Tho, and changed to a modern presentation instead of, for example, displaying a whole chicken on the table. Last year many chefs shared that the eating tools such as plates, bowl used to display foods still lack of interesting form and shape. This year ideas of food presentation initiated by these three chefs brought inspiration to Minh Long Co. Ltd for production of new designs.

Until now leading thoughts of the group Chef Hoang, Chef Nam and Chef Duy still face challenges from conservative concepts, but the number of people who support has also increased. Chef Hoang said that Saigon is only in the formalization stage for restaurants reaching find dining standards. In Spain there is El Bulli which is open only six months a year, and the other six months they spend studying new dishes. Diners must reserve their seat about one year in advance. Chef Hoang and his team have a practical point of view, so they are looking for a way to create a restaurant with a Bistro-styled approach, then turn into casual dining before reaching the apex of fine dining.

Being a Food Stylist doesn’t mean you color and complicate the dish, but you increase its attraction through its taste, ingredients and nutrition. This is especially true for dishes that utilize local ingredients. One must first understand why you use these ingredients. Chef Hoang said that Vietnam has many “incredible ingredients” located along the country all the way from the north to the south, so many great opportunities are available to practice and increase skill.

Kien Giang province has many delicious dishes. Every time fishermen go out to sea it can be dangerous, so if we don’t make good dishes from these ingredients it is unacceptable. For the fishermen, chefs have to improve the quality of their food. Both Chef Nam and Chef Duy also think the same as Chef Hoang. One of the most delicious dishes in Rach Gia province is “Bún cá nước lèo” – a fresh rice noodle soup with fish that diners prefer to have in a big bowl. The diners from other countries normally prefer a smaller bowl because they want to taste everything in including the broth. When the broth is prepared using different levels of heat there is a change in the taste. The broth that Hoang cooks reduces from five to one-half a liter under a small fire. The criteria for his dishes are beautiful, delicious and nutritious.

The world enjoys healthy cooking while barbecue restaurants utilize burning embers. It is a wonder how much risk of cancer is increased simply by eating at these restaurants? These young chefs are trying to show these ways of cooking, but it is just like designing clothes for fashion; there will be compliments and also feedback. For example, it will be more expensive to have enough embers or wood to cook this way.

Most of the work that the trio produces doesn’t exist in any book, so the group wants to write a book about delicious dishes made at the Golden Spoon contest. It is obvious that they understand the necessity of passing on knowledge and trends for future generations. “The rest of the world studies first, then tests its most unique and creative dishes. Once they receive compliments for this they will be confident to take the next steps forward,” said Chef Hoang.

Acording to Hoang Lan
The Gioi Tiep Thi Newspaper