It is well documented that southern Vietnam’s cuisine has been influenced by the French, but it is also undeniable that the fare has been influenced by another of France’s former colonial hubs: the port city of Pondicherry, India.
The
roots of Vietnam’s curries, or cà ri, stretch across Asia back to the Indian
subcontinent. To understand the overlap, one must first understand the nature
of the spice trade during the time of French colonization, and the movements of
an ethnic minority, the Cham people.
For
a portion of the 19th century, France controlled both port cities of Saigon and
Pondicherry. In addition to the redistribution of raw ingredients between
seaports, a population of roughly 6,000 migrated from India to Vietnam.
Southern
Vietnam, according to City Pass Guide, benefitted greatly from the spice trade
due to “its convenient coastal location making it a perfect trading spot, and
its warm climate making it perfect for growing key imports such as chili from
the Americas and spices from India.”
Dr.
Ariel Hoa, born in Vietnam to French and Indian parents, told Tuoi Tre: “The
French, who did not trust Vietnamese people, brought Indians over to Indochina
to work for them.”
These
Tamil migrants and their subsequent Indo-Viet progeny usually manned spice
shops, integrating their herbs and spices to the local market. In fact, Ben
Thanh Market’s famous Anh Hai is run by third generation Indo-Viet spice vendors.
Heavily
influenced by trade with India, the Cham, “a seafaring people dedicated to
trade” played a part in curry spices’ popularity, according to an article in
Zester Daily.
Historically,
the Champa Kingdom existed in and around what is modern day Hue. Due to
conflict, Cham nationals fled south to what was then called Funan, an area
heavily tied to Indian culture. Today’s remaining Cham population (roughly one
million or less) is still spread across central and southern Vietnam and
neighboring Cambodia.
Similar
to Cham influence, much of the curry eaten in Southern Vietnam has been
affected by Khmer curries – also an extension of ancient Indian culture.
After
Vietnam gained independence from France, much of the Indian population left the
country. But their culinary legacy remains a delicious part of life here.
By Saigoneer