The “Natal Grass” of Quynh Nhai

The Thai people living in Quynh Nhai District who moved from their homes to make room for the Son La Hydroelectric Reservoir, carried the names of their hamlets, their houses and even the remains of their ancestors to their new residence but could not bring along a humble type of grass. It is Mieng trau grass, which characterises the hometown of the Thai people in Quynh Nhai now deeply underwater.

We went with Dieu Chinh Hien, Deputy Head of the Department of Culture of Quynh Nhai District on a boat ride from Pa Uon pier to enter the Son La Hydroelectric Reservoir and visit the former location of Quynh Nhai District, which is now underwater. Along the 30km voyage, Hien could tell us exactly the names of places, hamlets, streams and mountains now underwater. Looking at the faraway mountain, Hien said: “Tang Ke Range, 2020m above sea level, looked much smaller when the water level rose. Under where we are sitting are the fields of my family.” When reaching a milestone marking the former Quynh Nhai District’s centre, Hien seemed to find something.

His hands trembled when they touched a clump of green grass. He quickly took a blade of grass into his mouth and cried out: “Luckily mieng trau grass still exists. It’s more than ten years since I last tasted it.” It turned out that Hien wanted to find the type of grass closely linked with his childhood in this journey.

The milestone marking the centre of former Quynh Nhai District is situated where there used to be the radio-television station of Quynh Nhai District. Photo: Viet Cuong/VNP

Mieng trau grass grows on the islet with the milestone marking the centre of former Quynh Nhai District. Photo: Viet Cuong/VNP

Green Mieng trau grass grows near the milestone. Photo: Viet Cuong/VNP

Dieu Chinh Hien collects Mieng trau grass, which is closely linked with his hometown. Photo: Viet Cuong/VNP

Mieng trau grass is cleansed with water from the Da River in Quynh Nhai. Photo: Viet Cuong/VNP

Mieng trau grass has pointed leaves, brown roots and only grows near the Da River which runs through Quynh Nhai District. Photo: Thong Thien/VNP

Mieng trau grass grows in the remains of the former Quynh Nhai District, which is now under the Son La Hydroelectric Reservoir. Photo: Thong Thien/VNP

The Thai people often use a knife to collect Mieng trau grass with roots. Photo: Thong Thien/VNP

When processed, white roots are removed and brown ones are kept. Photo: Viet Cuong/VNP

Mieng trau grass is a special vegetable of the Thai people in Quynh Nhai. Photo: Viet Cuong/VNP

Mieng trau grass served with salt and ginger is an intriguing dish. Photo: Viet Cuong/VNP

Old Lo Na Ho in Muong Chien Commune acknowledged that no Thai person in Quynh Nhai is ignorant of Mieng trau grass. In the past, when there were disasters that made animals hide in Tang Ke Mountain, fish in Da River hide in underwater clefts, and plants not grow, the Thai people in Quynh Nhai suffered from famine. It was the grass growing along the Da River during flooding season that saved them from starving several times.

Ho also added that Mieng trau grass only grows between April and September, during the rainy season, when floods in the upper Da River carry red alluvium to this area. Ho served in the French resistance war and travelled to many basins of Ma River (running through Son La and Thanh Hoa provinces), Nam Na River (Lai Chau), Hong River (Lao Cai) but he never saw Mieng trau grass growing in these areas.

After the trip to Son La Hydroelectric Reservoir, we came to the new Quynh Nhai District and were treated to a big meal of Mieng trau grass by Hien. Grass was uprooted and cleansed before being mixed with salt and ginger. The dish delivers a strange aroma and a rich taste together with the heat of ginger.

Though the new Quynh Nhai District is just about 30km away from the former one, Mieng trau grass does not exist on any bank of stream or river there. As he has made his way to all villages and hamlets, Hien found nowhere the Mieng trau grass grows but for the milestone marking the former Quynh Nhai District. Many Thai people in Quynh Nhai District have managed to take boats to this area just to get some Mieng trau grass and enjoy the taste of their homeland.

Story: Thong Thien

Photos: Viet Cuong – Thong Thien

By VNP